Originally a sleepy wee village of Shepphards (more rumors abound that Jesus passed some time here amongst his flock!) Pahalgam has exquisite scenery of majestic pines, and blossoming high-altitude meadows looking up to snowy peaks and down into beautiful blue rivers. It is possible to enjoy a day trip to this location to get out of noisy Srinagar but the beauty of Pahalgam does not lie around the small bazaar, hotels, and parks of Pahalgam town but in the mountains past Aru.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pahalgam
Pahalgam Town
The journey from Srinagar itself gives- you a taste of what lies ahead. Noisy congested streets give way to poplars and rice fields, where flashes of color from the pink or green of a woman’s head scarf to the golden grain reflect the sunlight.
You know Pahalgam is approaching when you spy the rushing and refreshing Lidder River starting to turn and gurgle. When you hit Pahalgam town, there is quite a noisy bazaar reminiscent of Dal gate selling the usual Kashmiri handicrafts and shawls. If only stay for the day there is a number of parks where you can relax and enjoy a picnic.
You can also take a pony ride or a small walk up the hillsides. The best option would be to take the beautiful drive from Pahalgam to Aru (11 km). Shared jeeps leave the main bazaar frequently to Aru and the drive is simply stunning as you slowly wind your way up the mountain, the lush green valleys, snowy mountains, small villages, and that ever-ravishing Lidder calling you to come and explore. To reach Pahalgam take a shared taxi to Anantnag (Islamabad) taking around 2.5 hours from the Dal Gate Taxi Stand located between the Dal Gate Bazaar and the Petrol Pump. From Anantnag Taxi Stand (the first taxi will drop you here) take another shared taxi to Pahalgam, around 1 hour costing INR50, this will drop you in the main bazaar, Pahalgam. You can also take the SRTC Bus leaving from the TRC at 8:30am every morning in the summer, and returning in the evening. The ‘deluxe’ 19-seater costs INR369 and the ‘high-tech’ 36-seater costs INR289. You can also hire a private taxi or take the local bus leaving frequently from the Batamaloo Bus Stand (again first to Anantnag/Islamabad then Pahalgam).
Pahalgam is another tourist destination with a wealth of hotels and guesthouses for every budget. There are plenty of big hotels in the main bazaar and many gorgeous small guest houses on the Lidder River about 2km on from the main bazaar on Chandiwari Rd. If you wantbudget accommodation in a beautiful location right next to the Lidder, make your way to Chandiwari Rd, and you will find rooms for INR500–1500. There are also some beautiful guesthouses in Aru where it is recommended you stay if you want less bustle of the main town and a beautiful calm surround. You can also camp in Pahalgam and Aru. As usual, prices vary with occupancy and season.
Aru
It is from Aru that you can begin to glimpse the real beauty of the area. Aru is the last stop of supplies, restaurants, tea stalls, and guest houses before you begin the trek into the mountains. You can also pass time happily here with walks, pony rides, and lunch if just stopping for the day. If you leave the main hustle and bustle of Aru Village and venture over the ridge on foot or by pony you will find Gujjar Huts built into the mountainside, and if you are lucky, you will also see the Gujjar men and women attending their flocks and daily chores. It is in Aru that most people will first see Gujjars in their natural habitat. If you are in Srinagar at the right time of year, you may have already glimpsed the strange sight of shepherds herding their flocks of sheep down Boulevard Road early in the morning. These are the Gujar the “Shepherds of Paradise”. Willows grow around the Gujjar huts surrounded by branch fences. Their fields produce buckwheat, maize, and potatoes. You can camp just above Aru under huge shady fir trees, next to the beautiful flowing stream. There is a legend that in the Amin Valley, the mountain flanks give rise to three springs, the water clearer than glacial water, which, when drunk in moderation under the midday heat of summer, provides a “natural champagne”.
Aru Wild Life Sanctuary
Aru wildlife sanctuary is situated in one of the most beautiful parts of Kashmir. It has got stunning mountain ranges, beautiful meadows, deep valleys, silver line river, and streams. Spread on 32 sq. It is home to many exotic species of animal birds and medicinal plants. Mammals like Leopard cats, Musk deer Himalayan black bears, Hangul, etc. Can be spotted in this area.
Gujjars and Bakerwals
The Gujjars and Bakerwals are the nomadic and semi-nomadic tribal peoples of Jammu and Kashmir (they are also found in Pakistan). They spend the winter months in Rajouri and Poonch on the western flank of Jammu and in the first weeks of April pack up their families and houses onto horses and begin the long walk-through valleys and over treacherous mountain passes to the high-altitude meadows of the Kashmir Valley to graze their cattle. “The Bakerwals move in extended family units and set up camp in tents, staying in places for one to two days, and in some others for weeks. They do not wander randomly; their path is well-defined based on hundreds of years of experience moving through the mountains. The huts that you see as you walk through the mountains around Pahalgam belong to the Gujjars, in these huts, the family sleeps alongside the cattle.
The Line of Control running between Kashmir and Pakistan has sliced their grazing lands in two reducing their ability to graze their flocks competently, this has resulted in the overgrazing of meadows in the Valley, it remains to be seen what kind of impact this will have on the herders. They are recognizable by their colorful headgear; the men wear long beards dyed with Henna and Khan dresses with checked turbans and generally a blanket draped over their shoulders. The women wear a simple salwar kameez, a large shawl, and large silver jewels, particularly big nose studs, and the Gujjar women wear a colorful woven cap. Both men and women are recognizable by their hardy mountain appearance and dark eyes. Like all traditional tribal people, the younger generation is restless after being introduced to the desires of the modern world. As grazing lands, forests, and water quality in the mountains diminish, formal education is becoming more relevant for children.
From Aru, begins the trek to Lidderwat, a stunning natural meadow home to the Gujjar and Bakerwal tribes. It’s from Lidderwat that one can make treks to the Sonmarg, Tsar Mar and Kolohai glaciers. Crossing the ridge from Aru, you begin to experience softness and silence of the mountain air, and begin to feel amazing sensations as if you are entering into God’s own private garden. Dark green luscious pine forests close over you as you follow the well-worn path of many Travellers over the many years. The path then opens out as you cross meadows dotted with horses, huts and human life and you look to the snowcapped mountains around and to the rushing river below. It is actually glorious. The walk to Lidderwat (11km) is straightforward and moderate, it is entirely possible to do this walk without horses or a guide. If you are wanting for anything once you reach the Lidderwat Valley you only have to communicate with the Gujjar folk and you can buy or trade with them, or send one of the more ambitious young boys back to Aru to bring you supplies. The path to Lidderwat runs along the left bank of the Lidder, and a bridge across to the right bank leads to a tourist hut for the weary traveler, who wants a solid roof of tin over their head for the evening. Lidderwat itself is green and open, surrounded by majestic trees and stately peaks, it is a place of incredible beauty, relaxation and rejuvenation. Lidderwat is the junction of three roads, on the west to Sonamarg, the east to Kolohai and the south returning to Pahalgam. It is entirely possible to spend a week camping at this location and each day completing small hikes to various destinations of your choice. The other option is to camp here for the night and then continue.
Trek from Pahalgam to Tar-sar and Mar-sar Lakes
Duration: Min 5 and max 7 days
Grade: Moderate
Best Time: June to October
Highest Point: Mar-Sar Lake
Major Highlights: Beautiful meadows, shepherds and shepherds’ huts, snowcapped mountains, colorful wild flowers and high-altitude lakes.
Day 01 Srinagar to Aru valley,
Pahalgam
Pahalgam can be reached by share taxi which leaves from Datgate petrol pump to Islamabad/Anathnag from here you have to take another share taxi to Pahalgam. There is a bus that leaves from the SRTC bus stand near the TRC Tourist Reception Centre. The drive to Pahalgam is 3.5 hours drive from Srinagar. On the way you pass through Pampore saffron city. 20 minutes after Pampore, you reach Avantipur the grand stone temple built by ancient King Avantivarman, the ruins of which are still standing. On the way, you can also get a glimpse of Aishmuquam Ziarat high on the mountainside and the final resting place of one of Kashmir’s greatest saints The drive from Aishmuquam Ziarat to Pahalgam is very pleasant, as you drive parallel to the lively Lidder River. Pahalgam is situated at the junction of the Seshnag and Aru rivers. The last village in the valley is Aru, 11 km from Pahalgam at an altitude of 7900 ft. Overnight stay in Aru, either camping or staying in one of the many lovely guest houses available.
Day 02 Aru to Lidderwat (Lidder Valley)
After breakfast, you can go look for a pony man or arrange your trek through a travel agency (Ahanger HOBO is recommended). The charge of a horse or pony for a day is INR900. Take all your ration from Aru. The trails take you up a ridge that is steep and tiring once you cross it the rest of the trail to Lidderwat is flat through a deep enchanted forest, dancing silvery streams, and Gujjar (nomadic) settlements. Aru to Lidderwat is 11km, and is situated on the junction of three roads; the east goes to Kolohai, the west to Sonamarg and south goes to Pahalgam. After walking for 3 to 4 hours, cross the wooden bridge to reach the beautiful camping side in Lidderwat. There are two small alpine huts here with basic accommodation if you don’t feel like tenting for the night.
Day 03 Lidderwat to Tar Sar Lake
Today we have to cover around 16 km (10 miles) and a river crossing. Tar Sar is a calm and quiet place that gives a sharp edge to the appetite. Start the day by climbing the small ridge which is the backdrop of the camping site. Once you cross it you reach a plain ground that will take you near the Gujjar huts at Sekiwas. Cross the River from a convenient point to reach the other side of the river. From Sekiwas, the trail on the right side takes you to Yamhar Pass (4091 m) into Kulan Sonamarg. Keep the trail on the left side until you reach another Gujjar hut situated on a slope. From here the trail becomes a little steep and tiring. Follow the trail across and it will take you to the top from where you get the first glimpse of the crystal-clear water of the lake. There is a wonderful camping site on the shore of the lake. Overnight stay in a camp on the banks of Tar Sar Lake.
Day 04 Tar Sar Lake (3849m) to MarSar lake (3995m) Just two hours walk from Tarsar lake is Marsar Lake. The silvery streak of water from Tarsar goes to Dachigam valley. There is also a trail from the meadow around the lake which goes all the way to Dachigam valley and into Srinagar. You need a special permission from the Wild Life Department to go beyond this point. You can camp here or go back to Liddarwat via the same route.
Day 05 Lidderwat to Aru and Pahalgam
Start the walk from the beautiful Lidderwat via the same route you reached Aru. Either stay the night here, or take a shared taxi to Pahalgam, and from there you can take a taxi or bus to Srinagar the left side trail from Lidderwat takes you to Sat Lan Jan, and from the base of the Kolohai glacier one trail takes you over Kolohai pass to the village of Sarbal in Sonamarg and the other takes you to the main Kolohai glacier followed by the Kolohai climb.
Aru to Sonamarg Trek (Sindh valley via Yamhar Pass)
Duration: 4 days
Grade: Moderate
Best Time: June to October
Highest Point: Yamhar Pass
Major Highlights: Beautiful meadows, Lidder river, nomadic life, mountain peaks, lush valleys.
Day 01 Srinagar to Aru valley,
Pahalgam:
Pahalgam can be reached by share taxi which leaves from Dalgate petrol pump to Islamabad/Anatnag from here you have to take another share taxi to Pahalgam. There is a bus that leaves from the SRTC bus stand near the TRC tourist reception center. The drive to Pahalgam is a 3.5-hour drive from Srinagar. On the way you pass through Pampore saffron city. 20 minutes after Pampore, you reach Avantipur — the grand stone temple built by ancient King Avantivarman, the ruins of which are still standing. On the way, you can also get a glimpse of Aishmuquam Ziarat high on the mountainside, and the final resting place of one of Kashmir’s greatest saints. The drive from Aishmuquam Ziarat to Pahalgam is very pleasant, as you drive parallel to the lively Lidder River. Pahalgam is situated at the junction of the Seshnag and Aru rivers. The last village in the valley is Aru, 11 km from Pahalgam at an altitude of 7900ft. Overnight stay at Aru, either camping or staying in one of the many lovely guest houses available.
Day 02 Aru to Lidderwat (Lidder Valley)
After breakfast, you can go look for a pony man or arrange your trek through a travel agency (Ahanger HOBO). The charge for a horse or pony for a day is INR500. Take all your ration from Aru. The trails take you up a ridge that is steep and tiring once you cross it the rest of the trail to Lidderwat is flat through a deep enchanted forest, dancing silvery streams, and Gujjar (nomadic) settlements. Aru to Lidderwat is 11km, and is situated on the junction of three roads; the east goes to Kolohai, the west to Sonamarg and the south goes to Pahalgam. After walking for 3 to 4 hours, cross the wooden bridge to reach the beautiful camping side in Lidderwat. There are two small alpine huts here with basic accommodation if you don’t feel like tenting for the night.
Day 03 Lidderwat Yamhar Pass Base
Start the day by climbing the small ridge which is at the backdrop of the camping site. Once you cross it the valley broadens and you will reach open ground taking you near the Gujjar huts at Sekiwas. From here the right trail takes you to Yamhar pass (4091) and the left takes you to Tarsar lake. Continue walking on the right-hand trail before you reach the pass. Overnight camp near the base of the pass.
Day 04 Camp to Zaiwan (4091) We start the morning by climbing the pass. The climb is stiff and tiring so fill your water bottles from the stream before approaching the pass. The view from the top of the pass is mesmerizing. Descend to reach Khemsa, from here the trail gets divided into two trails. The left goes to Gund and the straight trail goes to Ziawan and then into Kulan. An overnight stay can be done in Kulan or you can drive to Sonamarg — there are frequent sumo and bus services to Sonamarg and Srinagar from here. There is an alternative route on Day 03…
Halt at Sekiwas and camp there for the night.
Day 04 Sekiwas to Sumbal (average walking time 7 hours)
In the morning, leave west for Sonmoos pass. The ascent is steep and takes time. Once you reach the top and descend, you cross Surfarow and then to Sumbal. Sumbal is in Sonamarg. You can take a shared taxi from here back to Srinagar.
Another trek leaving from Lidderwat is to the Kolohai Glacier. From Lidderwat camping ground, walk on the right-hand side valley for three hours, just before you reach Sat Lan Jan you have to cross a stream at seven points. At Sat Lan jan there are Gujjar huts, where you can camp.
The next morning follows the trail straight for around 2 hours walk from Sat Lan Jan (seven small streams), crossing the Kolohai valley is the mouth of the Kolohai glacier, the major source of river Lidder. Once you reach Kolohai glacier, on the left side a well-defined trail takes you up a path and after a steep climb you reach the top.
Once you reach the top walk straight and you will get the top view of Doodh Nag. It is a circular shape lake with milky-colored water. On one side there is a cliff above a glacier that feeds the Doodh Nag. The other side of the lake is covered in beautiful wildflowers and herbs of different kinds. There are another two trails from the base of the Kolohai glacier. One trail takes you over the Kolohai pass to the village of Sarbal in Sonamarg and three other takes you can go to the main Kolohai glacier followed by the Kolohai climb.
The Beautiful Ice-bound Lake of Tulian, Pahalgam
Duration: 1 night 2 days
Grade: Moderate
Best Time: June to September
Highest Point: Tulian Glacier Ridge at 3700m
Major Highlights: Beautiful meadows, shepherds and shepherd’s huts, snowcapped mountains, and a high-altitude lake.
Day 1: Pahalgam to Tulian meadow
(Average walking of 6 hours)
The morning starts with walking towards the taxi stand. Just ahead of the taxi stand is the stand for horses where you can hire horses for the trek, usually, they charge INR1000 INR per horse per day. Don’t be surprised if you get bombarded by twenty to thirty horsemen, trying to convince you to hire his horse. Go with your instinct and choose your horseman who can also be your guide for the rest of the trek. Once you know them, then it’s very interesting to travel with them. Get all your rations from the market because you don’t get any ahead, though there is a small restaurant at Baisaran 5km ahead, your first halt after you start from Pahalgam. Once you cross the horse stand, you walk up into the forest on a very well-defined footpath taking you to Bhaisaran. It is a huge flat charming grassy glen in the middle of the pine forest. The view of the surrounding mountains is phenomenal. You can take tea or snacks here and plan the further trek.
